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Tag: Tudor

Tudor Fastrider Black Shield chronograph

50 Years of Tudor Chronographs

Tudor Fastrider Black Shield chronograph

This year Tudor celebrates 50 years of chronographs, so we’re looking back at the timepieces that marked milestones in the brand’s history. 

It started in 1970 when Tudor launched their very first chronograph, the Oysterdate. The colorway came in only black or gray with luminous pentagonal shaped hour markers. It was because of the marker’s unique shape that the Oysterdate was also called “Homeplate”, resembling the plates on a baseball field. It had just three models, clearly distinguishable by the way the bezel looked. 

The Oysterdate 7031 had a bezel with a Plexiglas disc marked with a 500-unit graduated tachymeter scale; the Oysterdate 7032 used a satin-brushed steel bezel with an engraved tachymeter scale; and the Oysterdate 7033 featured a bidirectional rotating bezel with a 12-unit graduated black disc. All three models were powered by the manual winding Valjoux 7734 caliber with a cam chronograph mechanism.

Tudor Oysterdate Chronograph

A second generation of Tudor watches with roulette-wheel dials was launched in 1971. They were called Monte Carlo, after the famed casino in Monaco. It used the same case as the Oysterdate, but added new color combinations including one with the blue which would become Tudor’s signature. It came again in three models and had a brand new manually wound Valjoux 234 caliber with better chronograph mechanisms, a clutch and column wheel.

Tudor Monte Carlo Chronograph

In 1976, there was another collection from Tudor: the Prince Oysterdate. This collection showcased the first ever Tudor chronographs with their very own self-winding movements. Dials came in combinations of black, white and silver, but they were also available in the previous dial designs done by Tudor. 

The case’s style remained the same, but made thicker to accommodate the Valjoux caliber 7750–earning the name “Big Block” among collectors. Once again, the collection featured three models all identifiable by the bezel’s look.

Tudor Big Block Chronograph

Minor adjustments were made to the Prince Oysterdate in 1995. This year’s collection used softer lines, while the case and configurations had rounder curves. Alongside that, Tudor introduced sapphire crystal to the Prince Oysterdate, which earned it the sobriquet “Sapphire Chronograph”. The watches still housed the same movement, but were now offered in gold and steel arrangements.

Tudor Sapphire chronogaph

Fast forward to 2010, when Tudor celebrated 40 years of chronographs with the Heritage Chrono. Some of the design elements, such as the home plate shaped hour markers and gray and black configurations, were subtle nods to the original Oysterdate. The timepiece was offered with a black, grey or orange Jacquard fabric strap, which soon became a trend in watchmaking. The movement used for these models was the caliber 2892 with an additional chronograph mechanism.

Tudor Heritage Chrono

The success of the 2010 Heritage Chrono paved the way for a second one in 2013. This new one came in blue and paid homage to the Monte Carlo. 

Tudor Heritage Chrono Blue

Within the same year Tudor surprised and impressed watch enthusiasts with the Fastrider Black Shield, a sporty matte black chronograph. It diverged from Tudor’s traditional aesthetic; it had a very detailed and angular design reminiscent of a superbike fairing. The sleek timepieces came with red, bronze or white hour markers and were equipped with the self-winding caliber 7753 that had a cam chronograph system and a date at 4:30.

Tudor Fastrider Black Shield Chronograph

In 2017, Tudor launched the Black Bay Chrono which combined their Black Bay’s aquatic history with the chronograph’s timekeeping functions. The Black Bay Chrono was COSC-certified and had a high precision regulating organ developed by the brand. The movement had a balance spring, column wheel and vertical clutch while boasting a 70-hour power reserve. All this was thanks to the manufacture caliber chrono MT5813, which was a result of collaboration between Tudor and Breitling. Proving itself to have superior performance and design, the Black Bay Chrono won the prize for best watch under 8,000 Swiss francs in the 2017 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie Geneve.

Tudor Black Bay Chrono

As Tudor remains committed to producing more and improving their watches, we won’t be surprised if they come up with another family of chronographs in 2020. 

Get to see select TUDOR timepieces up close when you visit our stores.

 

Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin banner

2019 GPHG Prize Winners

Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Ultra-ThinLast November 6, prize winners of the highly anticipated Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve (GPHG for short) were announced. Snagging not one, not two, but three GPGH prizes from this year is Audemars Piguet, which includes the biggest award of them all: Aiguille d’Or Grand Prix.

 

Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin soldier

Aiguille d’Or Grand Prix – Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin

The GPHG Aiguille d’Or grand prize is given to the overall best watch. This year, the world’s thinnest automatic perpetual calendar wins the biggest award of the night. Audemars Piguet’s ultra thin Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar was first presented at SIHH 2018 as a prototype, and at the time was called RD#2. The refined model is 6mm thin and comes in a 41mm case made of  titanium and 950 platinum.

 

 

Code 11.59 soldier

Men’s Complication Watch Prize – Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Minute Repeater Supersonnerie

The prize is given to the men’s watch that possesses excellence in creativity and intricacy, and Audemars Piguet’s Code 11.59 best represents this. The 41mm manual wound minute repeater has superb sound quality and volume thanks to their patented gongs and the case’s construction.

 

Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin soldier

Iconic Watch Prize – Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra Thin

The recently added category celebrates watches that come from emblematic collections and made a lasting influence on the history of watchmaking. Audemars Piguet takes another win with their iconic Royal Oak timepiece. The 39mm watch is the second in the Royal Oak collection to come in a white gold case, and it was paired with a gold toned “Petite Tapisserie” dial which was last used for the Royal Oak’s 20th anniversary.

 

 

Tudor Black Bay P01 soldier

Challenge Watch Prize – Tudor Black Bay P01

The challenge of this GPHG prize?  To make an exceptional watch with a retail price of CHF 4,000 or under. Tudor dared to take on this challenge with one of their Black Bay watches which first appeared at Baselworld 2019. Read more about the 1960s prototype inspired watch here.

 

Traditionnelle Twin Beat perpetual calendar soldier
 

Innovation Prize – Vacheron Constantin Traditionnell Twin Beat perpetual calendar

This GPGH prize is awarded to the watch that goes the distance when it comes to innovation and development in watchmaking. Vacheron Constantin wins the award with a 42mm watch that beats at two different frequencies, adding another 64 days to its 4 day power reserve.

 

Chronometre Ferdinand Berthoud Carburised Steel Regulator

Chronometry Watch Prize – Chronometrè Ferdinand Berthoud Carburised Steel Regulator

The prize is awarded to the mechanical watch that has at least one tourbillon, a special escapement and has contributed to the development of accurate time measurement. Ferdinand Berthoud comes in first with their 44mm carburised stainless steel watch that features a constant force tourbillon and a fusee-and-chain transmission.

 

See the complete list of winners below:

  • Ladies’ Watch Prize: Chanel J12 Calibre 12.1
  • Men’s Watch Prize: Voutilainen 28ti
  • Ladies’ Complication Watch Prize: MB&F Legacy Machine FlyingT
  • Calendar and Astronomy Watch Prize: Hermes Arceau L’heure de la lune
  • Mechanical Exception Watch Prize: Genus GNS1.2
  • Chronograph Watch Prize: Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic
  • Diver’s Watch Prize: Seiko Prospex LX line diver’s
  • Jewellery Watch Prize: Bvlgari Serpenti Misteriosi Romani
  • Artistic Crafts Watch Prize: Voutilainen Starry Night Vine
  • “Petite Aiguille” Prize: Kudoke Kudoke 2
  • Audacity Prize: Urwerk AMC
  • “Horological Revelation” Prize: Ming 17.06 Copper
  • Special Jury Prize: Luc Pettavino, Only Watch founder and organizer

 

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2 Tudor Black Bay P01 models

2 Tudor Black Bay P01 models

The Tudor Black Bay P01 made its debut to the watch world last March at Baselworld 2019. The watch got its inspiration from the prototype Tudor developed and proposed to the U.S. Navy in the 1960s. A 12-hour rotatable bezel was required for the watch, as an important navigational tool for sailors. The bezel also had to be extremely sturdy so it wouldn’t get accidentally knocked out from its position. Thus, Tudor came up with a way for the P01 to lock the bezel in place with a manual claw mechanism located at 12 o’clock.

Black Bay P01 on wrist

Instead of being used solely for diving purposes, Tudor has modernized the latest P01 model by making it suitable for any physical activity under any climate. With a choice of a hybrid leather or rubber strap, the timepiece shows how it exemplifies the versatile sporting spirit. Moreover, the P01 is waterproof to 200 meters and features a patented end-link bezel lock system.

Black Bay P01 worn during a sports activity

The Black Bay P01 is one of the watches that have been pre-selected for the “Challenge Category” of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve 2019, which is a testament to Tudor’s long and pioneering tradition of watchmaking.

Tudor Black Bay P01 front

Tudor Black Bay P01 Ref. 70150

Case

  • 42mm
  • Steel case 

Dial & Hands

  • Black, domed
  • Date indicator at 3 o’clock
  • Snowflake hands

Functions

  • 12-hour steel bidirectional rotating bezel with a stop system 
  • Screw-down steel winding crown at 4 o’clock
  • Waterproof to 200 meters

Movement

  • Manufacture calibre MT5612 
  • COSC-certified
  • Self-winding mechanical movement with bidirectional rotor system
  • 70 hour power reserve

tudor rugby world cup timekeeper 2019 anchor
 

With Tudor having New Zealand’s national rugby team, the All Blacks, as their brand ambassadors since 2017, Tudor becoming the official timekeeper of the Rugby World Cup doesn’t come as a surprise. 

The All Blacks are looking to defend their back-to-back championship and hold up the Webb Ellis Cup for the fourth time in history in true “Born to Dare” spirit. The ambition doesn’t look too daunting with the team having an over 75% win rate. That win rate solidifies them as not only the best rugby team, but also one of the best teams in sports history.

 

tudor rugby world cup timekeeper 2019 all blacks
The All Black team’s victory in the Rugby World Cup 2015

 

This year’s Rugby World Cup is hosted by Japan, which started last September 20 and ends November 2. This is the first time the best rugby teams from all around the world get to run, kick, and tackle on Asian soil. Only held every four years, it’s an event rugby fans have been waiting a long time for. And with over 2 million people having gone to the last one, attendance is only expected to rise this year.

 

tudor timekeeper 2019 black bay chrono luxury watch
 

In light of Tudor being the official timekeeper, the luxury watch brand gave all 23 Rugby World Cup referees a special edition of the Black Bay Chrono model fitted with a rubber strap, instead of the standard steel bracelet. It also has the World Cup’s logo engraved on the caseback, with the text “Official Timekeeper” under it.

 

tudor timekeeper 2019 black bay chrono dark luxury watch
 

Of course, Tudor didn’t forget about their partnership with the All Blacks and released the Black Bay Chrono Dark. It’s limited to the overall number of players the All Blacks team has ever had, a total of 1,181 at the moment. Every time they recruit a new player into their ranks, Tudor will add one more, with each piece having its number engraved on the caseback.

tudor timekeeper rugby world cup 2019 black bay chrono dark luxury watch

Black Bay Chrono Dark

Case
  • 41mm 
  • Matte black PVD-treated steel case with satin finish
Dials & Hands
  • Black, domed
  • Date at 6 o’clock
Functions
  • Hours, minutes
  • Chronograph seconds
  • Chronograph 45-minute counter at 3 o’clock
  • Small seconds at 9 o’clock
  • Instantaneous date at 6 o’clock without non-correction range
  • Stop seconds for precise time setting
Movement
  • Manufacture Calibre MT5813 (COSC) with chronograph function
  • Self-winding mechanical movement with bidirectional rotor system

At this year’s Baselworld, Tudor decided to build on its Black Bay family with quite interesting pieces. As they look back on their heritage for inspiration, and fuse it with the Black Bay aesthetics, Tudor has succeeded in creating polished and reliable watches that keep in line with its historical connection to divers’ watches.

 

Tudor Black Bay Bronze Ref. 79250BA-0002

In 2016, the Black Bay Bronze was the winner of the “Petite Aiguille” prize at the prestigious Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve. At Baselworld 2019, Tudor’s naval heritage timepiece returns—this time in a slate-grey dial, and a rare bronze case with a special patina. The 42mm case was made with a kind of brass used in old ships and diving equipment from naval history.  This living metal produces a subtle, unique patina on the watch case depending on the wearer’s habits. The patina develops into a warm brown and golden color over time, giving it a worn look that adds to its vintage vibe. Since dark colors tend to produce a slimming effect, its slate-grey dial slims down its hefty case. Another benefit of its grey dial is its high legibility which is the same as that of a black dial, only with a lot more charm. While we’re fans of an aged black leather strap, this slate-grey woven strap with a gold accent beautifully matches the watch’s color scheme. Overall, it’s striking watch with rich visual effects and an immense commanding presence on your wrist.

 

Tudor Black Bay 41/36/32 S&G Ref. M79503-0001

A new addition to the family is the slightly smaller and simple but well-designed Black Bay 41/36/32. This time, Tudor is giving you the privilege to refine the watch’s aesthetic—from choosing a 32, 36, 0r 41mm case, all the way down to selecting a lacquered black or champagne colored dial. While there are many combinations to choose from, we think the lacquered black dial in a 32mm case seems like a perfect blend. The polished timepiece comes in a new five-link yellow gold and steel bracelet that adds a subtle contrast and warmth, as well as a supple and comfortable look on one’s wrist. With just the right amount of gold, the watch is dressy without being formal, making it an excellent choice to wear on any occasion.

 

Tudor Black Bay Chrono S&G Ref. 79363N-0001

Two-tone fans, where are you? Tudor knows you’re out there. The watch house combined aquatic heritage and motorsport heritage in its Black Bay Chrono, now in S&G. While the core Black Bay characteristics remain present, such as the 41mm case and gold pushers, the timepiece comes in a polished, satin-finished steel and yellow gold bracelet. In fact, the entire piece is dripping in gold; from its crown, bracelet, pushers, all the way down to its bezel. With champagne-colored counters to create a warm and golden look, it also creates an ideal contrast against its domed matte black dial. The watch is finished with Tudor’s signature snowflake hands and red accents to incorporate a more sporty chronograph look. While you have an option of a brown aged bund leather strap and a black jacquard fabric strap to embrace the spirit of 70s racing, we’re a sucker for the S&G bracelet with that case. A standout from the pack, the chronograph is powered by a self-winding manufacture calibre, column wheel and vertical clutch—a first for Tudor.

 

Tudor Black Bay P01 Ref. M70150-0001

We’re down to the most talked about watch at Baselworld 2019: the Tudor Black Bay P01. The timepiece was based on a proposed prototype developed specifically for the US Navy in the 1960s. The PO1, standing for Prototype 1, was originally designed with a utilitarian aesthetic in mind, which explains the unorthodox winding crown at 4 o’clock and the unique end-link bezel lock system, all within a 42mm case entirely satin-brushed for a matte finish. Adding to its aesthetic is its domed matte black dial with painted luminescent hour markers and of course, Tudor’s signature snowflake hands. Accompanying the case is a rubber base strap bearing a snowflake motif on the back, finished with brown leather trim. Powering the watch is the manufacture caliber MT5612, making things perfectly engineered and sharp. All in all, we can definitely say it’s a well built Tudor watch with a great story and historical context behind it.

 

Get a look at the other watches that have caught our attention from this year’s Baselworld.

Timezone watches. Despite being at the top of every list detailing the watches every aficionado wants to get their hands on, travel and world timers are some of those complications that notoriously confuse watch beginners.

And that’s perfectly okay, because time zones are, in themselves, inherently confusing. UTC? GMT? Daylight savings? Yeah. We thought so.

You’ve probably heard of these sought-after timepieces called by different names: time zone watches, GMT watches, world timers, travel timers…. These various terms can be a lot to wrap your head around. After all, they are some of the more elaborate complications in the luxury watch industry. And there are so many of them.

So, simply, what are they, and why should they be a part of your collection?

Fundamentally, their functions are all similar; that is, to tell what time it is in multiple geographic locations. How they do it, however, is quite different from each other.

Travel Timers

Travel timers, also known as GMT watches, are timepieces that let their wearer tell the time in one other location through the use of a rotating bezel and a third hand, commonly called the “GMT hand.”

“GMT” stands for Greenwich Mean Time, which is the time established at the Royal Observatory in Greenwich, London—making it a time zone. Alternatively, Coordinated Universal Time (UTC), is a time standard, although most English-speaking countries use the two interchangeably. Ironically, the latter is more commonly used in aviation, which is the industry wherein the GMT watch became popular.

Whichever time the GMT hand points to will serve as the hour hand for the second time zone. For example, on this Rolex GMT-Master II, one can easily see how the times for both locations are set at 10:10. The travel timer is especially useful for those who travel frequently, and move from one time zone to another.

  • Rolex
  • Tudor
  • Baume et Mercier
  • Rolex GMT-Master II “Batman” Ref. 126710BLNR

    This black-and-blue GMT watch, dubbed as “Batman,” is perfect for those who think the “Pepsi” was a little bit too colorful.

  • Tudor Black Bay GMT Ref. M79830RB-0002

    Ever imagined the “Pepsi” with a leather strap? Tudor brings your imagination to reality with their rugged “Tiera de Siena” brown leather strap.

  • Baume et Mercier Clifton Ref. 10316

    Rather than a rotatable bezel, or even just a separate hour ring on the dial, this watch prefers to display the other timezone in a sub-dial.

World Timers

On the other hand, world timers—also aptly known as time zone watches—tell time across more than two time zones. Twenty-four, to be exact.

So how do world timers work? Most feature an adjustable ring or two with multiple locations, usually major cities within a time zone. There is also a rotating ring displaying the hours. To set the time, the wearer simply aligns their home time with the correct hour on the time zone bezel. To tell time in different locations, most world timers feature a pusher that adjusts the rings accordingly, but even without these adjustments, the wearer can check the current time in the 23 other time zones at a glance, making them an invaluable tool for those who have loved ones or business partners across the globe.

  • A. Lange & Sohne
  • Chopard L.U.C
  • Girard-Perregaux
  • Lange 1 Time Zone Ref. 116.039

    Inside the white gold case and under the silver dial sits the L031.1 movement, the same movement as with the other two models in platinum and pink gold.

  • Chopard L.U.C Time Traveller One Ref. 168574-3001

    Encased in stainless steel is the in-house L.U.C 01.05-L movement, and can be admired through the transparent sapphire caseback.

  • Girard-Perregaux 1966 WW.TC Ref. 49557-11-132-BB6C

    This 40mm world timer is powered by their self-winding mechanical GP03300-0027 movement.

No matter your age, a watch will always be a part of your life: telling time with an (analog) clock is one of the first lessons you were taught in kindergarten, peppered through lessons about the ABCs and 123s; children’s book series always have that one title called “What Time is It?” or something equally charming; and we all remember having that one (probably plastic) watch with our favorite cartoon character emblazoned on the dial.

In this day and age of the smartwatch and the inescapable mobile phone, however, the number of people who live their days by the hour and minute hands on their wrists is slowly getting smaller and smaller.

Admittedly, a working knowledge and fondness for watches is slowly becoming less and less common, but there is a growing group of young watch enthusiasts who have embraced the joys of this art. For their part, watch brands are studying and riding the wave of trends to remain relevant, and this resurgence amongst a younger audience is something we’re ardently championing.

Here’s a selection of timepieces that are up to par with the trends of the new generation.

Panerai Luminor Base Logo millenials

Panerai Luminor Base Logo

With its sleek design and larger cases, Panerai is undoubtedly king of the oversize watch trend. The brand offers timepieces that are more accessible for the young watch enthusiast, so If you’re an aspiring Paneristi, you can’t go wrong with the Luminor Base Logo. It embodies all of brand’s iconic aesthetics: the cushion case, crown bridge and dial all scream Panerai.

IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XVIII millenials

IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XVIII

This flieger style watch has a long-running history, with the first iteration of this watch developed in 1948 for the British Royal Air Force. Aesthetically, the design didn’t go through too many drastic changes, a testament to its timelesness. The IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XVIII is perfect for the wearer who appreciates a sleek take on a historically inspired timepiece from a world renowned brand.

Tudor Black Bay GMT millenials

Tudor Black Bay GMT

Tudor is probably the first brand to be introduced for the purpose of being more accessible to a wider market, positioned as a more affordable option to its sister brand, Rolex. Tudor’s vintage styling, however, allows the brand to step out of its parent company’s shadow. Their most recent release is the Black Bay GMT. Although similar to a vintage Rolex GMT Master, it still features original design cues, like the split bezel color inspired by two iconic Black Bay models from the past.

Longines L2.759.4.78.3 millenials

Longines L2.759.4.78.3

Founded in 1832, Longines is one of the world’s oldest watch brands. Since its acquisition by the The Swatch Group, pioneers in promoting watches to literal children, Longines’ approach has evolved from merely targeting an older, more established audience to creating watches specially designed for young professionals. Their Master Collection, for example, embodies the manufacture’s technical prowess while aesthetically catering to a more youthful market.

 

Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris millenials

Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris

When you think of Jaeger LeCoultre, the first thing that comes to mind are the classic Reverso watches, more associated with the the older, polo-playing set—or vintage design enthusiasts. With the release of the new Polaris line, however, Jaeger-LeCoultre has rounded out its offerings with a collection ideal for the modern lifestyles. Equal parts sporty and elegant, the Polaris line also has the distinction of being inspired by original designs from 1968.

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