Lucerne Luxe Magazine | Luxury Watch Articles, News, and Videos

swiss watches philippines

luxury watch articles

rolex philippines news

tudor philippines news

omega watch philippines news

watches philippines
luxury watches philippines
patek philippe philippines
ADVERTISEMENT
  • Discover more brands
    on the Lucerne Luxe site.

    EXPLORE NOW


Discover more brands
on our corporate site.


  • Shop the best vintage watches
    in the Lucerne Shop

    SHOP NOW

Shop the best vintage watches
in the Lucerne Shop

Category: Features

Should You Be Buying Pre-Owned?

pre-owned luxury watches chronograph

Pro #1: Pre-owned watches are *usually* sold for less

Buying pre-owned luxury watches can be tricky. But like most things, it has its pros and cons. It can be exciting stumbling on an overlooked treasure, or you could shell out some serious cash on a serious fake. There’s nothing wrong with second hand watches, though; you just need to be aware of the advantages and disadvantages of this method of shopping.

Like most things, watches depreciate in value, so you could probably get a pre-owned timepiece for as low as 40% off its original price, depending on the condition it’s in. If you’re lucky, you can get a mint condition piece for a fraction of its original cost. The usual exception is if a specific piece is rare and desirable, or was owned by someone famous or significant; it’s definitely not going to be a bargain.

Pro #2: A pre-owned watch has character

Some people appreciate the look of a used watch, whether it’s the patina of the dial, the faded color of the bezel, or the dings and scratches on the case. These tell the story of the previous owner’s relationship with the watch through the years.

Pro #3: You may encounter rare and hard to find pieces

Watch companies might discontinue watch lines or models for various reasons, whether because it didn’t sell well, or is being replaced by a newer version. It’s not often that watch brands revive previous lines or create reissues, so if you’re looking for something that’s been taken off the market, a good place to look for it is in the pre-owned market. 

Pro #4: The hunt is exciting

If you’re entertaining fantasies of being a pirate searching for dubloons on a deserted island, or an archaeologist discovering a hidden cache of treasures, then we can tell you that you’ll enjoy the process of second hand watch buying. Depending on the watch, you might have journey across the globe for a specific piece, with no way of telling if the watch you’re hunting is even there. If it’s the experience of exploring antique shops, attending auctions, and meeting new people that adds value to the watch that you’re looking for, then navigating the pre-owned market just might be most fun you’ll have.

Unfortunately, buying pre-owned isn’t all fun and games; there are certain things you need to constantly keep in mind… unless you want to be scammed.

Con #1: There are a lot of fakes

And we mean a lot. This is the obvious con; it goes without saying that you have to be very careful when shopping for pre-owned pieces, watches or not. If there is even a single doubt in your mind that the watch is fake, don’t bother.

Con #2: There can be hidden issues, like third-party parts

In horror, the scariest thing is that which you can’t see; it’s applicable in the second hand market. There are sellers who will find ways to hide issues in their watches for the sake of making that sale. In other cases, mostly for vintage watches, original replacement for broken or damaged parts are almost impossible to come by. So if anything needs replacement, third party parts are employed, but doing so will drag down the value of the watch.

Con #3: Inflated prices due to desirability and rarity

Flipping isn’t just for real estate or the newest streetwear drop. Public demand often leads to higher prices, and it has happened that people buy out desirable pieces before anyone else can get to them, only to sell them for profit. Highly collectible, unique, and one-off pieces also tend to fetch higher prices. Let’s not even get started on the phenomenon of celebrity watches selling for jaw-dropping amounts at auction.

Con #4: Hunting takes time and effort

Exciting as it initially is, you will eventually get tired of looking for The One. Even we’ll admit: a search with no end in sight can get frustrating. For those who don’t have the patience, there’s no shame in buying brand new.

From Basic to Better

Understanding innovation in luxury watch materials first requires knowing what properties these materials bring to the table. Their properties are the starting point that innovations spring from. These are generally concerns of lightness, durability, resistance to corrosion or scratching, and aesthetics. Watch materials fall under five categories: metals, ceramics, polymers, composites, and metalloids.

Panerai Luminor Marina 1950 3 days Automatic Titanio luxury watch materials

The Panerai Luminor Marina 1950 3 days Automatic Titanio uses a titanium case, which is half the weight of stainless steel, is corrosion-resistant, and anti-magnetic, and skin-friendly. 

Metals

For general engineering purposes and in watchmaking, metals are used for their strength, hardness, toughness, lightness, and durability. Metals bear heavy loads, resist high temperatures and pressures, endure a lot of wear and tear in cyclic loads, but where timepieces are concerned, these stresses and demands take place on a smaller, more human level. For example, Jacques Cousteau’s Rolex Submariner and Buzz Aldrin’s Omega Speedmaster only needed to be durable enough to undergo the pressures of undersea diving and the intense g-forces of space travel. As they are, metals and their properties already bring a lot to the watchmaking table.

Stainless steel is the workhorse of watchmaking metals. Alloyed with chromium, stainless steel forms a thin film, invisible to the human eye, that retards oxidation while maintaining a smooth finish on the surface. The material is likewise durable enough to accept a number of finishes: brushed, satin, matte, reflective, mirror, and so on. Lastly, stainless steel can endure the wear and tear of human use, lasting entire lifetimes.

Titanium offers additional improvements over stainless steel. First, it can bear up to five times the load ordinary steels can bear. Second, titanium weighs around half the weight of steel at the same volume. Thus a titanium watch case would offer the same durability as a stainless steel case but at a lighter weight. There are, however, certain stainless steel alloys that are more durable than titanium, but these are used for industrial purposes and hardly in watchmaking. Like stainless steel, titanium has an oxide layer that forms on its surface, making it both corrosion resistant and hypoallergenic—ideal for accessories.

Metallic properties and watch components

Flipping over a A. Lange & Sohne Saxonia, for example, would readily illustrate how metallic properties come into play in horology. The hand-polished, chamfered, or beveled parts all attest to the various metals malleability and ductility. The Glashutte waves and the circular, sunburst, and brushed finishes show how metals can, with expert skill, display a number of finishing touches that come together in one aesthetic effect.

Precious metals like gold, platinum, or sterling silver gain added hardness when electroplated with rhodium. By itself a precious metal with a high melting point and low malleability, rhodium is usually alloyed with nickel, palladium, and gold to become the white gold seen on many luxury timepieces. With sterling silver, it adds tarnish resistance and added shine. If used to set diamonds, its reflective qualities make them appear larger and to advantage.

Meanwhile, blued steel—seen on timepieces mostly as watch hands or screws—partially protects steel from oxidation by applying a surface layer of magnetite, the black oxide of iron. Chemical bluing creates a homogenous shade of blue throughout the metal’s surface; because horology requires some nuance from its materials, the preferred method is thermal bluing by hand. This involves laying the screws or watch hands on a tray, which is lined with brass filings to keep the temperature relatively constant, and heating the tray to around 220° C. The components acquire the blue shade to varying degrees—thinner areas acquire the blue shade more readily than thicker areas, resulting in several subtle shades of blues and purples.

A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Annual Calendar movement luxury watch materials

A. Lange & Söhne is known for its use of precious materials and the degree of finishing it gives all parts of the watch—including the parts that won’t be normally seen, such as in this 1815 Annual Calendar. 

Innovations in horological metals

A few years ago, tantalum was a dark horse in the watch case materials category. It is now generating a fair degree of interest, with its appearance on several timepieces: Hublot’s Big Bang Tantalum Mat, Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Leo Messi Edition, and the Panerai Luminor Marina series, among others. As a rare and hard metal, highly corrosion resistant and bioinert, tantalum lends itself well to haute horology. Aesthetically, a timepiece with a tantalum case or bezel would eschew the usual shine of other precious metals and convey a stealthy, matte-gray instead.

Ceramics

While this category includes non-metal inorganic compounds like glass, diamond & sapphire crystals, and graphite, this also includes engineering ceramics that have been used in watch cases and other watch components. Ceramics are the hardest class of materials known. They are around three to four times stronger than stainless steel. Ceramics resist wear and tear easily, maintaining a smooth surface and low friction for a long time. They are also lighter than stainless steel or titanium. With their low density—as low as that of aluminum—and their high hardness, ceramics are an ideal material for watchmaking.

However, ceramics are prone to breaking when hit with a strong enough impact. Ceramics are strong when they come under compression, but their strength is reduced by up to 15 times when under tension; ceramics are not as flexible and ductile as metals. All the same, timepieces with ceramic cases or components are less likely to encounter high-force impacts as say, ceramic aerospace components or industrial tools. Used in a timepiece, ceramics are guaranteed to last several lifetimes, maintaining their smooth finish and low-friction operations.

Rolex Submariner luxury watch materials

The Rolex Submariner uses a ceramic insert, called Cerachrom, for its unidirectional rotating bezel. The material is extremely hard, corrosion-resistant, scratch proof, and its color is unaffected by ultraviolet rays.

Innovations in horological ceramics

Rado set the precedent by being the first to use engineered ceramics for its timepieces. This blends oxides, carbides, nitrates, and zirconium to create a durable, scratch-resistant material that can be shaped into watch cases.

It is for these properties that ceramics find use in many luxury watch bezels, as seen on several Rolex lines, Hublot’s Big Bang, Panerai’s Luminor 1950 series, Omega’s Dark Side of the Moon—all timepieces that require the durability and resistance of ceramics to keep up with their wearer’s active lifestyles.

The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Aventador S is a perfect example of what can be done using forged carbon. It possesses shapes that cannot be molded into place using traditional methods. 

Composites

Carbon fiber was a big hit when it was first used in watches. It was high-tech and advanced, lightweight and strong, and the depth of the checkerboard pattern was mesmerizing to look at. But manufacturing processes have changed. Now, we have forged carbon, a material that looks similar to granite because of its manufacturing process. Instead of layering carbon sheets on top of a mold and injecting resin like a traditional carbon weave, forged carbon is made out of fiber paste mixed with resin squeezed to produce any shape or form possible. It is strong all around but may not be as strong at a specific direction like traditional carbon; the carbon weave can be tuned to be strong at a specific direction. However, forged carbon is easier and cheaper to produce.

The Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time Advanced Research is a special release of Patek Philippe to showcase their craftsmanship using different materials, including Silicon, which is used on the escape wheel and pallet fork.

Metalloids

The latest innovation in watchmaking is the use of a metalloid called, Silicon. Not to be confused with Silicone, which is a liquid or rubber-like synthetic material. Silicon, on the other hand, is a natural element that has both metallic and non-metallic properties. It’s the 2nd most abundant element in the Earth’s crust and it is used in bricks, glass, & in electronic devices. So you might be wondering what use does Silicon have in watches. Well, it plays an integral part in the movement, specifically the balance spring, lever and anchor wheel. It’s anti-magnetic, corrosion resistant, unaffected by temperature changes, generates very little friction, and can be shaped into any form.

This piece was originally published in the print version of Lucerne Luxe Magazine, and condensed for brevity.

Fighting words, to be sure, but we’re calling it: These are the watches that are guaranteed to elevate your look, no matter your personal aesthetic.

  1. The Dress Watch

Breguet Classique Chronométrie 7727

For those events that require the wearing of a suit. Usually classic in design, thin, and elegant, it’s worn on occasions when you need to tuck the watch into your sleeve (e.g. a black tie event). Black leather straps are ideal, and since most men consider the watch their only accessory or form of jewelry, is preferably in gold or platinum.

  1. The Divers Watch

Omega Seamaster Ploprof 1200m

There are more than 7,000 islands in the Philippines, so a diver’s watch is a must for the beach lover. After all, wearing a dress watch to a resort makes just about as much sense as wearing a pair of black leather oxfords with boardshorts. This watch needs to have a rotating bezel, a screw down crown, and a helium escape valve. Other features are big, luminous markers, and preferably a rubber strap.

  1. The Chronograph Watch

Hublot Big Bang Ferrari Unico Magic Gold

It’s a cliché because it’s true: Men who love watches are (usually) just as crazy about cars. It comes as no surprise, then, that auto-themed watches are some of the most popular in the market. These typically feature chronographs that can measure elapses time, and have design features inspired by supercars. Bonus points if you get your hands on a brand collaboration.

  1. The Work Watch

IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Automatic

Yes, everyone should have one, but the watch you choose depends on the job you have, and, realistically, correlates to the size of your paycheck. It should reflect your lifestyle and your daily activities: Are you in surgery all the time? Are you always on the field? Are you always at client meetings? Every industry will have different preferences in brand, style and function, but it should always be automatic and have calendar functionalities.

  1. The Travel Watch

Vacheron Constantin Overseas World Time

Whether you’re travelling for work or leisure, going from one time zone to another is unavoidable at some point, and you don’t want to (or can’t) miss that important flight or appointment. There are three choices for the jetsetter: GMT, Dual Time, or Worldtime. Take your pick.

  1. A Discreet Watch
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classic Duoface Small Second

There are many occasions being tasteful and discreet is necessary. This is the watch you wear when subtlety is the name of the game and you’d rather not make too extravagant a statement.

  1. The Weekend Watch

Panerai 1950 PCYC Regatta 3 Days Chrono Flyback Automatic Titanio

We’ve covered beach weekends, or the weekends that involve taking the Ferrari out with your friends. This watch is the go-to when you’re hitting the clubs or the bars. This is the watch to wear when you’re channeling a laid-back sort of cool, perhaps in the company of people who actually care about what the Met Gala theme this year was. This is the watch that guarantees you’ll get numbers.

  1. A Rolex

Rolex GMT-Master II

Every collection deserves—no, demands—a Rolex. Due to its popularity, it’s quite rare to find someone who doesn’t know about these classic models. A Rolex is also a great conversation starter, and history has proven that these conversations lead to a good many deals being made. If you already own one, you know what we mean.

  1. A Complication Watch

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Tourbillon Chronograph

The apex of every collection. Basically, a jaw-dropping watch that probably has a price tag with seven or more figures. From a perpetual calendar and tourbillions to minute repeaters, this is the type of watch that gets the attention only of those who are in the know. Honestly, this watch alone is enough to get you VIP treatment in a Michelin-starred restaurant, nightlong bottle service at a club with an impossible guest list, or the benefit of being bumped up a waitlist for a highly coveted, well, anything, really.

  1. An Heirloom Watch

Patek Philippe 5208R

Preferably one from your father or grandfather, whom you saw wearing the watch while you were growing up. Nostalgia plays a big part in determining the value of this watch: it’s special because it triggers memories of the person who used to own it. Now that it’s yours, it turns you into a custodian of tradition, of a legacy, so start paying more attention to what wisdom you’ll be passing on to the next generation. And take care of that watch, yeah?

luxury watch buyer anchor

Thousands of people come through our doors, but a few personalities have a tendency to stand out. Here are a few of the characters we can spot from a mile away.

The CEO

The CEO luxury watch buyer

Understated models from big well known brands is where their appreciation lies. Simple timepieces that can be hidden from the eyes of the public yet carries the brands heritage and iconic status. They make smart investments in pieces that they think will retain or even appreciate in value. Their mindset is what lead them to be as successful as they are now and their watch buying habits are a testament to that.

The Jet Setter

The Jetsetter luxury watch buyer

The Jet Setter can’t stay in the same place for too long. Whether for business or the sheer pleasure of giving in to wanderlust, they’re always on the move, jumping back and forth between time zones. For them, keeping track of time is a bit of a challenge—it’s happened that they’ve woken up and forgotten what city they’re in. Has a predilection for watches with world time or GMT functions, for obvious reasons.

The Connoisseur

The Connoisseur luxury watch buyer

Their mastery of luxury timepieces could almost be considered a superpower. Has an almost encyclopedic knowledge of brand histories, the inspiration behind watch designs, the latest innovations, and up-and-coming models. This collector is nitpicky about the details and will stop at nothing to get to the heart of the watch to gauge its true value. Don’t even try one-upping them when discussing watches, and Heaven help anyone who attempts passing off a fake as authentic in their presence.

The Sportsman

The Sportsman luxury watch buyer

In sports, every second counts. The Sportsman will opt for a watch that can track their progress while training or competing—the goal is always optimizing performance. Accuracy is of the utmost importance when measuring readings like distance, and speed (for racers), and depth, pressure, and elapsed time (for divers). An accurate sports watch is their weapon of choice because if anyone needs durability and performance, it’s this collector.

The Style Guru

The Style Guru luxury watch buyer

A trend setter with eclectic taste and unerring style, whether they’re in a suit or joggers. Their watch collection is well curated, but each selection is made, conceivably, to match every ensemble. For the Style Guru, collecting watches is more about design than technical specifications. They might own every style available, from sports watches to dress watches, but chances are, much like their clothing wardrobe, this collector zeroes in on a specific aesthetic. Minimalist? Vintage? Ultra-modern? Those terms are just as important as “tachymeter” or “battery reserve”. For them, it’s all about the details.

The Curator

The Curator luxury watch buyer

They’re always on the hunt for hidden treasures at antique shops, abandoned storage units, estate sales and, these days, eBay. For them, the search for the watch just might be better than actually owning the watch, which may explain their membership in myriad watch forums online. Dents, scuffs, and scratches don’t matter, so long as there’s a good (and verifiable) story behind these character-giving qualities, and they’re more than used to dealing with eyebrows being raised by the less perceptive. The rarer the watch is, the better, and The Curator is incredibly discerning when it comes to restoration, sometimes foregoing the process because, sometimes, those quirks add to the character of the piece.

The Car Enthusiast

The Car Enthusiast luxury watch buyer

Their real passion is with cars but a car enthusiast can’t go out on a drive without wearing a watch to match their beloved steed. They would always look for anything car related, especially collaborations with brands like Ferrari, Bentley and Lamborghini or even watches that are tied to a significant person or an event in racing, for example: Paul Newman and Steve Mcqueen, and events like Daytona 500 and Mille Miglia.

That Guy

That Guy luxury watch buyer

The person who has everything, but who’s always searching for the next most extravagant thing money can buy. Has been known to impulsively swipe their black credit card on the newest model just because “it looks nice.” Their shopping list and must-haves are exactly what you expect: luxury cars, huge mansions, private jets, exotic animals and very, very, very expensive watches, preferably a unique, bedazzled piece that’s the opposite of subtle.

So, you’ve decided to take the plunge and go mechanical. We’re proud of you, but we’ve (unfortunately) discovered that a great deal of those who have chosen to listen to the siren song of the battery-free tend to forget a few things about their timepieces.

Fret not—we’re here to keep you from making the sort of mistakes that’ll have you rushing to your friendly neighborhood service center or that’ll keep you up all night Googling “how to fix mechanical watch help me please what have I done”. The truth (sometimes) hurts, but we must all soldier on because some things are worth it.

Your watch will stop when not used.

One of the perks of having a mechanical watch is that it doesn’t run because of a common battery, but because of centuries-old techniques, which essentially makes that slug on your wrist a veritable engineering marvel.

While that is something worth being in awe of, this isn’t without a catch: a mechanical watch only has enough power in it to run for a few days, and when left unworn or unused, the mainspring—which powers the whole watch—will have unwound, leaving the watch without energy.

Automatic watches typically only require being worn (or kept in a winder) to keep it running, thanks to its rotor, but a totally mechanical watch demands winding every few days. So if you’re not wearing or winding (never on your wrist, and never too tightly) it on the regular, don’t expect it to keep time for weeks at a time.

You cannot set the calendar when the hands are near 12 o’clock/between 9 PM and 2 AM.

That is, unless you want to potentially ruin it.

In all seriousness, don’t do it. It’s when the watch hands are in this position that the watch should be changing the date on its own, engaging the gear train. Making any adjustments could potentially break important parts within your timepiece—and good watch repairs don’t come cheap.

You’ll need to have your watch serviced every eight to 10 years.

At the end of the day, it’s still a machine. You wouldn’t forego getting, say, your car serviced, would you? The same goes for your watch, which is just as complicated a machine. Pieces wear out, oils dry up, and straps and bracelets get dirty (particularly leather straps, which tend to degrade faster in hot, humid, tropical weather), so do yourself—and your watch— a favor by taking it to a certified service center every few years for a nice tune-up.

Your sapphire glass can’t get scratched—except by a sapphire or diamond.

One of the reasons you’re probably using to justify shelling out the amount you’ve paid is that the crystal on your watch is pretty much scratchproof. The operative phrase, of course, is “pretty much,” because there’s always the possibility that you’ll mar that pristine, shiny surface if you try hard enough, but unless you’re routinely rubbing against the aforementioned precious stones, you and your watch should be fine.

However, there is a caveat: That anti-glare coating the watch brand’s so proud of? That might look like a scratch on the crystal, even if your watch is fitted with a sapphire scratch resistant glass.

There’s no such thing as “waterproof” in this industry, and the ratings can get confusing.

Water resistance to 30 meters? 50 meters? 100? Great, you can swim and dive with your watch to that depth!

Sorry to burst your bubble, but you really can’t. We’d advise you err on the more conservative side and keep your watch from water, and even steam. Even if you have a diving watch—which is typically marked water resistant to a minimum depth of 200 meters, and which you should only take down to about half that depth—you need to consider that exposing it to extreme conditions means you’ll need to pay close attention to its functionality and have it serviced regularly. Another thing to take note of: the waterproof warranty on your watch expires yearly after the initial warranty provided by the manufacturer unless if you bring it in for waterproofing.

The fact is there is no truly waterproof watch. The water resistance watchmakers mark their pieces with are determined under strict, highly controlled conditions (e.g. steady, continuous pressure and still water) that are far from the reality of the world around us. Simply put: don’t risk it.

Your watch is inaccurate.

If you’re a stickler for semantics, that is. Plus or minus three seconds a day, or even a minute and a half per month, to be specific. That’s just the way it is: watchmakers are constantly striving to achieve complete accuracy, but the journey there is a long, arduous, and ongoing one.

Take a deep breath. It’s fine. We’ve all learned this and had our hearts temporarily broken. But you’ll live. And trust us, your watch is still great.

If magnetized, your watch could run fast up—to several minutes to hours faster. It could even stop.

Think about it: hundreds of tiny metal pieces arranged with extreme precision, holding each other in place and working in perfect harmony. Beautiful. All right, that may sound incredibly simplistic when explaining the negative effects of magnetization on a watch, but any exposure your watch gets to a magnetic force—present in everyday things like your phone, your microwave, your laptop—throws the delicate springs and gears of your watch out of sync, throwing off the timing or even stopping the watch completely. While it might feel like your heart has stopped along with your watch should it ever be magnetized, don’t worry; a well-equipped service center should be able to make any necessary repairs and adjustments to your timepiece.

The price of your watch might go up. Or down.

Bought your watch because you were sure it was a good investment piece? While most watches do appreciate in value, you need to take into consideration several things: the brand, the model, and the market. Several brands typically fetch great prices on the aftermarket, but models within brands might be priced lightyears differently. The laws of supply and demand also play a massive role, with buyers’ wants potentially dictating prices of secondhand pieces. Our advice? While it isn’t in any way a bad thing to buy a piece with the hopes that its value might go up, the main reason you should be buying a piece is because of how much you love it in that moment.

Questions are, contrary to popular belief, rarely a bad thing. Certain questions, however, are clear tells that you might not know what you’re talking about.

This is especially true in the watch world where, to be perfectly frank, one factor for even purchasing a luxury timepiece is to show it off—so asking a question that hints at your lack of knowledge pretty much defeats the purpose of having that gorgeous timepiece on your arm, if your purpose was to come off as a connoisseur,  doesn’t it?

To be clear, we’re not here to judge. In fact, we’re here to acknowledge that, yes, before we knew what chronometers and bezels were, we asked some of these questions too. Out loud, in some cases. And because we’ve asked them, they’ve been answered.

Question 1: “What’s the best watch in the world?”

Many people automatically equate “best” with “most expensive”, “best-selling”, or “most sought-after”, and that often really isn’t the case. The question just can’t be answered without going into the minutiae of watchmaking, or into the inquirer’s preferences. Determining what the best watch in the world is depends on a variety of factors: quality, aesthetics, functionality, complication, rarity, collectibility, as well as a person’s tastes. One brand might do one thing better than another brand. A watch someone considers great might be missing functionalities that are important to you. A limited edition watch owned by your favorite celebrity might not be a fit for what you need.  Trying to narrow the literally hundreds of thousands timepieces available in the world down to one is fighting a losing battle.

Question 2: “Is this watch accurate?”

To answer this demands that one become slightly philosophical, because, in truth, no watch is 100 percent accurate, and yet, some come close. Getting to that point is the horological world’s Olympic gold medal, Peace Prize, Pulitzer, and EGOT, all rolled into one.

There’s no getting around the fact that even the most accurate watch in the world (a designation that changes with each passing day), will lose a few seconds every year due to wear, magnetism, the drying of oils, and just simple aging. Typically, even the best mechanical watches might lose a few seconds a day, because even the greatest group of engineers in the world (again with the superlatives) cannot create a piece that syncs perfectly with universal time.

It’s a matter then, of how close a watch can get, at any given point, to complete and total precision. If accuracy is your biggest consideration, you can rely on the various certifications that have been established to show that a watch is well built, namely the Chronometer Certification, the Geneva Seal, the Patek Philippe Seal, and the Master Chronometer certification.

Question 3: “Which is better: a square watch or a round watch?”

You’ll have noticed by now that we’re not the biggest fans of the word “best” and its iterations when doing watch comparisons. Again, it all depends on certain factors; there simply is no single answer.

In this case, it all boils down to aesthetics, and aesthetics are a very personal thing. Round watches are more commercially popular, and most experts chalk it up to a combination of association (pocket watches are round, wall clocks are round… you get the idea), and simple ergonomics (the hands’ circular motion). This isn’t to say that rectangular watches have no place in a serious collection; watch lovers with an eye towards a vintage style that most explicitly harks back to the golden age of Hollywood are vocal in their love for the quadrilateral shape, as do those whose tastes are more inclined to the super-modern.

Question 4: “Why would anyone still, in this day and age, buy a hand-winding watch?”

You mean aside from the feeling of getting up in the morning, winding your watch, and feeling every bit like a modern day Don Draper, Clark Gable, Cary Grant, or any one of those stylish icons of yesteryear? Because that’s enough of a reason for us.

A hand-wound also has several practical aspects to it,  namely the options of slimming down the watch, and the possibility of design minimalism, thanks to the lack of the mechanisms that make an automatic watch, having fewer parts, making it easier to service and less susceptible to defects. A smaller production number also means that hand-wound watches are generally rarer and more collectible. Chances are, though, it’s the ritual of it that is so enjoyable that for some that to completely forego it is almost unimaginable. Sure, the convenience of an automatic watch might save you a few minutes every day, but the hand-wound piece brings emotional satisfaction and pleasure that an automatic model might not offer.

  • 1
  • 7
  • 8
  • Shop the best vintage watches
    in the Lucerne Shop

    SHOP NOW


SHOP THE BEST VINTAGE WATCHES
IN THE LUCERNE SHOP

NEWSLETTER